After my short adventure in Tokyo, I made sure to rest before flying back to Australia. Part of that rest included exploring Narita, the airport town that hosts Narita International Airport, the main gateway to the greater Tokyo area. If you have a few hours during a layover, Narita is an excellent place to sample Japanese culture. The town offers shopping malls, restaurants and plenty of karaoke bars to keep you entertained.
Like many Japanese cities, Narita is home to a significant Buddhist temple: Naritasan Shinshoji Temple. The complex is large, featuring important buildings and a tranquil park. Allow a few hours to explore the grounds properly. Walking down the hill toward the temple, you’ll pass shops selling snacks, sake and a variety of souvenirs. I particularly enjoyed the colorful lanterns lining the street; they add an immediate sense of place and make the stroll feel distinctly Japanese.
There weren’t many people around when I visited at 7 p.m. The temperature still hovered in the low 30s Celsius and, despite wearing shorts, I was sweating like I’d run a marathon. The atmosphere felt peaceful and almost eerie — calm and quiet compared with the busy, claustrophobic energy of Tokyo. I love that warm hour in the evening when the sun begins to lower and casts long, beautiful rays over everything.
After soaking up the calm of Naritasan and enjoying some quiet time, it was time to eat. Eating in Japan does not have to be expensive. With a few smart choices you can dine well on a modest budget. Shopping centres and malls typically have food courts offering balanced set meals — a salad, protein, dumplings and rice — for around 1,000 yen (roughly 12 Australian dollars). Specialty shops serve hearty bowls of ramen and plates of gyoza at similar prices, and even convenience stores like 7-Eleven have tasty, affordable snacks. You won’t go hungry.
I met friends at a local pub and we decided to dine at an izakaya — a Japanese style pub that serves both drinks and a wide range of dishes. Izakayas are great for groups because you can order several plates to share, and some places offer all-you-can-drink or set-price options, which can make the evening economical and social.
My sense of direction can be a little skewed, but I remember our place was past the main train station; turn left at the first street and you’ll see it. The spot is affectionately known as Papa’s.
Papa’s is a tiny place — about the size of a living room — but it more than makes up for its cozy footprint with warm hospitality and solid food. The owners are a husband-and-wife team. “Papa” handles the front of house, helps in the kitchen and chats with patrons. He speaks excellent English, which makes ordering easy and adds to the friendly, down-to-earth atmosphere.
On Papa’s recommendation I tried a dark, wheat-based Japanese beer. It was a touch lighter than my usual preference, but it paired nicely with the food. Soon a parade of deep-fried dishes arrived — hearty comfort food that celebrated crisp textures and bold flavors.
The gyoza came first, and they disappeared fast. Perfectly pan-fried, crispy on the bottom and tender on top, they released that delicious hot juice on the first bite — a familiar, delightful hazard that often singes the roof of your mouth. I order gyoza whenever I can; they’re a consistent favorite across Japan.
A friend couldn’t resist deep-fried balls of cheese and potato — not traditionally Japanese, but utterly addictive. They combined creamy brie, mashed potato and a crunchy breadcrumb coating for a rich, indulgent bite. The fried offerings continued with takoyaki (octopus balls), breaded oysters and fried chicken. I may have eaten an entire plate of oysters — they were that good.
To finish the evening we ordered tempura — the classic, lighter style of Japanese frying. The batter is airy and crisp, letting the flavor of the ingredients shine. Our platter included calamari, prawns, kabocha (Japanese pumpkin), eggplant, sweet potato and carrot. After all that food I was so full that lifting chopsticks felt like lifting a barbell.
I hope this glimpse of Narita encourages you to step outside the airport if your schedule allows. Even a few hours in this compact town offers a memorable taste of Japan and is a far more enjoyable way to pass the time than lingering in an airport terminal.